SH Heavyweights Transform Xingfucun's Red Rose Into a Gastropub
If Xingfucun favorite Red Rose were
to go by any other name, would it still taste as sweet? Well, the
long-beloved restaurant has subverted that old literary trope, and
instead changed everything but its moniker.
What was once a major
destination for foodies hankering Xingjiang grub in west Sanlitun, Red
Rose quietly shut down earlier this year, joining a slew of neighboring
favorites (everything from behemoth Great Leap #12 to more niche but nevertheless deeply popular spots like BBC and Sanctuary) that had been chai-ed
as part of Beijing’s widespread crackdown on streetside businesses. But
after all that bad news comes a promising, but nevertheless surprising
new development. Yes, Red Rose is back, albeit in a practically
unrecognizable form. More importantly, its new iteration is poised to
fill the neighborhood's post-Brickening dearth of late night snacking
and boozing. This new rendition instead boasts a gastropub ambiance with
elegant yet down to earth bar snacks and entrees to match, along with
cocktails readied by one of Shanghai's most famous bartenders, and craft
beer made by a German brewer.
Not the Red Rose you remember, by any means
Bartender Cross Qiu (who hails from Taipei) has equipped the staff with a range of cocktail options that are well balanced and abounding with flavor. When we stopped by earlier this
week, Qiu and his colleagues served us those drinks off-menu style,
asking our preferences (sweet, sour, or bitter; woozy or light; and what
spirits we liked) before whipping up drinks to meet those needs. The
sour bourbon-based cocktail we tried was gobsmackingly good and hefty
enough to kickstart an instant buzz. And while the first martini we
tried wasn't dry enough for our liking, the staff hurried to make up for
that with a second one that properly made our lips pucker and boasted a
colorful zestiness. Prices for those cocktails will range from RMB
80-120. On the more affordable end of the spectrum: Red Rose's beers,
which the owners say will be priced around RMB 45, and readied on site
by a German brewmaster who has 20 years of experience working in
Belgium, Hong Kong and other locales. Those suds weren't available
during our visit, but should be ready for the swilling by the last week
of September, if not earlier.
Aside
from the bar's sturdy wares, the rest of the team, like Yu, are vets
from Shanghai's food and beverage scene. Chief among them: Matthew Ona,
known for popular Pearl City spots like Roof 325, Truck Stop Grill, and
The Shook!, and an alum of the Culinary Institute of America to boot.
He served up some hearty, stick-to-your-ribs fare that was elevated by
elegant elements. Prime example: battered calamari and prawns,
which had crispy exteriors and lusciously plush inner textures (though
the tails of the prawns should've been removed to maximize their finger
food motif). The pillowy, gooey cheese puffs were more of a success without a flaw to be found, while other bites like the sliced salmon and a towering mound of chocolate cake (all four layers of it!) had us gobbling away with abandon.
It
was clear that the menu was still being tweaked and finalized, but what
we tried was very promising. We look forward to returning once Red Rose
is properly up and running with steaks, burgers, and sandwiches at the
ready (the owners say a party of two to three would likely spend between
RMB 200-400 on food, depending on what they order). Their soft opening
kicks off this Friday (tomorrow), Sep 14, and they'll be open in the evenings until
their hours expand after the soft opening's conclusion in October.
And
while longtime Beijingers might scoff at Shanghai slickers swooping in
and redefining one of their favorite Xinjiang eateries, it's tough to
deny the on-point quality of the wares we tried, not to mention the
stylish yet low key ambiance (brick walls adorned with communist
propaganda-like sketches that evoke both Revolution cocktail bar's decor
and Great Leap's logos, making for a fun Lao Beijing backdrop). When
you top all that off with a big al fresco dining area, we're certain
that the new Red Rose will blossom beautifully in the increasingly arid
Xingfucun area.
Daily 5.30pm-12.30am (soft opening hours from Sep 14 onward; hours will change later when soft opening ends in October)
Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley, opposite Workers' Stadium North Gate.
朝阳区 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内
Peckish for more pub grub? Read about fellow Shanghai heavyweights Boxing Cats' recent Beijing opening
Photos: Kyle Mullin, Red Rose
Do you have what it takes to be a True Runner?
Scan/Extract the QR code above to check out our current job openings.
Want to know what awesome events are happening in town? Scan/Extract the QR code above to get the list of our Editors' Picks.
Got something to sell? Looking for a job? Or probably your soulmate? Then scan/extract the QR code above to visit our Classified Ads.
Always something fresh
Scan/Extract the QR code above to follow us!
Tap on the cover to access the latest print issue.